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How to build your own futuristic smart mirror



  Smart mirror with calendar, weather and a dog in the reflection.
Josh Hendrickson

A smart mirror can show your calendar, weather and news as something from a sci-fi movie.

Beautiful, configurable and custom built

  Smart Mirror shows time, date and calendar.
Josh Hendrickson

Powered by a Raspberry Pi, you can build your own with some simple tools and hardware. Smart mirrors have been around for a while, and the most prominent version comes from Michael Teeuw. The idea is quite simple; you should build a frame and a box. Inside the box, place one-way glass (often seen on TV in police drums), a monitor, a Raspberry Pi and the cables needed to operate your installation. Michael and other contributors have created an open-source Magic Mirror platform that you can install. Once installed, you can customize it to view calendar, weather, news and more. The software installation is simple. It only requires a series of code.

The harder parts create the frame box, set the Raspberry Pi and then customize the software to display your desired information. But even someone with little or no experience of woodworking and code can build this DIY project with a little patience for a weekend or two. The longest parts are passive, like waiting for glue and stain to dry. You spend about three to five hours working actively on the frame and installing the software.

And we show you exactly how.

The materials you need

Depending on what you already have, this project can be either cheap or expensive. If you bought each item in the following list, you would spend around $ 700. But because we had everything in hand except glass and wood, we spent only $ 140. And remember that you don't have to buy the tools. If you have a friend who owns some, ask if you can borrow them.

To get started, you need the following:

  • A monitor: preferably at least 24 inches and one you don't care about losing. Slightly thinner and lighter is better, but this screen of Scepter would work. You must remove the stand. It is also helpful (but not necessary) to remove the frame from the monitor.
  • Two-way glass: Your glass should be slightly larger than the monitor's dimensions. The product we linked to Amazon is a generic size, but we were lucky enough to order from a local glass supplier.
  • A Raspberry Pi 3
  • A Raspberry Pi Case
  • Wood Paint or Color
  • Polyurethane (on dyeing)
  • Wood Filler (on dyeing, get speckled wood filler)
  • Sandpaper in 80, 120 and 220 grit (omit 220 if you choose to paint)
  • A miter saw (or handsaw and protractor) 19659014] Cable ties
  • Cable ties
  • Short wooden screws
  • Shims
  • Tape measure
  • Tape measure
  • ruler or other straight edge. Nylon strap
  • A screwdriver
  • Heavy frame hooks (if hanging)
  • Ear, eye and respiratory protection. Add a steam filter if you apply polyurethane without ventilation.
  • Wood to build frame and box: We recommend hardwood like Maple or Walnut at least one inch thick. You also want something thin like plywood to make the back of the box if you don't hang the frame. How much wood and how big depends on your monitor (see more when building the frame.)

For a more simple building, we have some advanced options. These are not necessary, but they will help:

Building the frame

 A sketch construction of a mitered corner frame with the sides of the box.

To begin with, make a basic frame (like the one you can find hanging on your wall). Then add a simple box to hold the mirror, monitor, Raspberry Pi and wiring. When finished, the structure may resemble a very thorough medicine cabinet.

 A sketch of a magic smart mirror frame

Dissasembling the Monitor

The first step to building your frame begins with your monitor. The size of your monitor determines the size of your glass and the length and width of the wood you need. If you plan to remove the frame from your monitor, you want to do it now. Each monitor is different, so we cannot give exact instructions here. You will want to search for seams along the edge to pry apart, and every step of the way tries to be gentle. You should have something like this when you are done:

  The background of a frame with frame removed.
Josh Hendrickson

Determination of wood size

After removing the frame (or skipping that step), measure the screen length and width inside the edges of the screen. Measure either along the metal frame on the inside or the frame's inner edge if you did not take it apart.

  Monitor with arrows showing measurements of length and width.
Josh Hendrickson

Write them down, and double the numbers. The last number is the total length of wood you need. For example, the width of this monitor is 11 and a half inches and the length is 19 and a half inches. Dual means 23 inches and 48 inches of wood respectively. It is best to buy at least a few inches than you need to find pieces and mistakes.

Next, to determine the width of the wood you need to buy, place your monitor on a flat surface, the side of the screen down. Now measure up from the flat surface to determine how thick your screen is. The wood you buy must be at least the broad, preferably a little wider.

The box requires a similar length to the frame so you can double the amount again.

In this project, we bought four boards that were three inches wide and one inch thick. Two boards were measured 36 inches long, and the other two were 48 inches long. The extra length means plenty of room for mistakes. If you have a large vehicle, you can buy two long boards (84 inches in this case).

Miter cuts for a picture frame

  Two boards with an angle cut that form a miter joint.
Josh Hendrickson [19659003] If this is your first time using a saw saw, you should look at Steve Ramsey's sawmill video for use.

Before working with power tools, grinding or application of stain or polyurethane, you should wear protection. It includes safety glasses and a dust mask or steam filter. If you use power tools, use ear protectors as earplugs.

Your next step is to cut tip angles in your wood. In this case, the grid angles are only 45 degrees angles. Two 45-degree angles are pushed up to each other making a 90-degree corner. And four 90-degree corners will make a square, or in this case a rectangle.

You can do this mowing with a miter saw, a table saw or even a hand saw and an angle. The handsaw is prone to trouble; You may not get a perfect angle or a straight vertical cut. So we strongly recommend using a mitzvah (which this guide will cover).

Start, put your mitzag at 45 degrees. Your miter saw has a left 45 and a right 45 option, select the right 45 for this first cut.

  Miter saw meter set to 45 degrees
Josh Hendrickson

ProTip: Most miter saws have hard stops at 45 degrees; you should feel that it clicks into place.

Now place your first "width" plate on the middle, with the left end over the corner extending just above the upper left corner. You want the blade to pass through the entire board, but the goal is also to minimize the amount of wood removed with this first clip.

 Board on a miter saw with a 45 degree line drawn on it to show a shortcut.

Josh Hendrickson

Save the little piece you cut off; You need it in an instant.

The next clip requires the opposite 45 degree angle to facilitate both corners to run in the same direction. Rather than moving the saw back and forth, turn the board over it and slide it down. As you measure around the monitor, you go forward, you need to measure the "inside" the edges of the wood closest to the monitor. That means the shorter side.

With the board facing, measure the first length you wrote down earlier (11 inches in our example above) and draw a straight line up and down. Now take the cut off part from the previous one and align the tip of it with your drawline, use it to draw a 45-degree angle line.

  Table on a miter saw with a 90 degree line a 45 degree line
The straight up and down line was the measured line; the angle came from the cut piece.

This mark is the angle and length of your cut. Slide your board down to make the next cut. It is important that you do not try to cut the line exactly as you drew. Your blade is thicker than the pen line, which means that cutting on the line gives you a shorter bit than you want. Just as in the picture above, the board shoots along the blade so that you cut something in the left wood. You can always take a little more off if you've left too much, but you can't put the wood back.

You will repeat this process to get the rest of the frame cards. Turn the board, measure the length, cut and repeat. Now you should have four pieces of angled wood that fit into a frame shape. If you find some of your cuts off with a little bit, you may need to trim. Take it slow and cut off less than you think you need

When you fit together, your boards should look like this:

 A rectangle showing boards with 45 degree angles.

Glue the frame together

Now is the time to glue your boards together. You may be wondering why we do not use nails or screens. The wood glue is extremely strong and will give us a harder and stronger joint than the nails, and has the advantage of a cleaner look, thanks to the lack of nails and screw heads.

It is true that miter joints are not as strong as other joints, but for our purpose we do not make the next strength, we wanted the decorative look.

The use of wood glue is a straight forward process, and if you have ever used any other glue you already know most of what to do. You must apply glue to the edge you want to join, spread it to cover all the wooden surfaces, then press it against the other part.

But unlike paper glue, you can't just let go of giving you time to get perfect placement, wood glue has a slow drying time, and if you drop too early it can slip or come apart. To solve this problem, you can use corner clips to hold the angled wood together. If you do not have corner clips, we have a tape game that does the job.

Take a length and a piece of bread (in the picture above, a horizontal and vertical part) and place them on their backside with the Angle Cuts barely touching. Then cut off a piece of painter tape long enough to catch both pieces of wood and place it next to your frame pieces.

  Two boards with angled ends touching, next to a strip of painter tape.
Josh Hendrickson

] Apply a thin glue stick to one of the angled pieces. Then use either your finger or brush to spread it to touch the entire face at that angle. Then apply the glue to the other angled face. With an edge grain, wood tends to suck in glue, so wait five minutes and then apply the glue again. Then place the boards on the tape piece, being sure to keep the corners touching.

  Two boards on tape with glue applied to the mitered ends.
Josh Hendrickson

Fold the two pieces together and make sure the tape sticks as tightly as possible. Then place and tabs of tape hanging over.

  • A frame corner with ribbons around the edges. ” width=”650″ height=”400″ data-credittext=”Josh Hendrickson” src=”/pagespeed_static/1.JiBnMqyl6S.gif” onload=”pagespeed.lazyLoadImages.loadIfVisibleAndMaybeBeacon(this);” onerror=”this.onerror=null;pagespeed.lazyLoadImages.loadIfVisibleAndMaybeBeacon(this);”/>
    Josh Hendrickson
  • Tip: Glue that seeps out like this is a good sign that you have applied enough glue. Wait about fifteen minutes to glue the glue and scrape it off with a putty knife or plastic butter knife.

    Repeat the process with the other boards and put them together.

     Magic mirror frame taped

    Check the instructions on your wood glue, and let the frame be bundled at least the minimum time it requires. The longer you leave the wood, the stronger it will be, but more than 24 hours is usually not necessary.

    When the glue is dried, remove the tape and check your corners. If you see any gaps, then it is good. You can fill them with wood fillers.

      The control corner shows small gaps.
    This gap may be from dropping instead of squeezing or a small error when cutting. Josh Hendrickson

    Wood filler is exactly what it sounds like. It consists of wooden pieces, glue, plastic and other contents. The goal of wood fillers is to overfill the hole. Do not worry about any wood filler that spreads around the gap, which will be removed by grinding later. You can use a putty knife or a plastic kitchen knife to spread it over the wood.

    Tip: Wood fillers should have a yoghurt-like texture. If it is hard and caked as in the picture below, mix in 3 parts mineral content and 1 part mineral oil to rejuvenate it.

      A corner of the frame with wooden fillers, a putty knife and a plastic knife.
    Josh Hendrickson

    Read the package of your wood filler again. Usually you need to wait an hour for sand and a day to stain. Once you have waited long enough to sand it, use your 80 sandpaper to remove the excess glue on your frame.

    Congratulations, you've built a frame. As a quick test, put your glass and mirror on the frame to double check what is properly seated on it and do not fall into the rectangular hole.

    Tip: If you have a router table, you can use a Roman Ogee bit to add decoration to your frame.

    Now is the time to build a box.

    Building the box

    Now that your frame is ready, it's time to build a box. The good news is this is much easier than cutting the wood and putting the frame together. The basic idea is to build a rectangle of wood that is large in the outer edges of your frame:

     A view of a rectangle set of boards on top of the frame.

    You start by cutting two pieces of wood that run as long as the long boards in your frame. Measure your frame at the edge from the end to the end. Then measure the distance on one of your uneven boards and draw a straight line with a ruler or other straight edge. For this cut, put your intermediate saw to "0" to make a straight cut.

      Miter saw to 0 for mowing
    Josh Hendrickson

    Tip: Just like a 45-degree angle, most mites have saw a "hard stop" at zero; you should feel that it clicks into place.

    When you put your board on the saw, do not try to cut directly on the line. Cut next to the line, on the side of the board that is "extra" (not the piece you cut off).

     A board on a miter saw with a pull line, the blade to the left of the line.

    In the picture above, the cutter will be to the right. The line shown is extra wide for clarity, but note that the blade only cuts to the left of the mark. It is better to cut a board a hair too long and trim down than to cut it too short.

    Once you have cut your first board, you can place it on the second board and use it as a measuring stick. Just drag your line with the straight edge you created and follow the above procedure again when connecting.

    Mount your boards on your frame and feel the edges to determine that they are flush and not too long. Trim as needed. Then measure the gaps between your two boards to determine the length of your last two pieces. Again, draw lines and cut off these lines and trim as needed.

    You should end up with something like this:

     Four boards form a rectangle.

    Again, make a test fit on your glass and monitor with all your finished components. Place the glass and monitor on the frame, then place these four cards around it to double check the hardware fit inside. It's okay if they're not good looking, we'll take care of it in later stages.

    Now you should glue the boards together. As we mentioned earlier, the ends of a board (final grain) will absorb glue, degrade the joint. Apply glue on both ends of both shorter pieces, wait five minutes and apply again. Then hug the longer boards in position. Try to make sure they are flushed (all edges rise).

    As above, wood glue has a slow drying time, so you must maintain a constant pressure. If you have F-Clamps, you can now use three to four to apply pressure to the boards. If you don't, bungee cord will do the trick. Carefully fold the cable ties around the rectangle, trying to keep the corners at 90-degree angles. Then attach the hooks:

      Four pieces of wood arranged in a rectangle with a zipper that pulls them together.
    Josh Hendrickson

    You will want to use strong, tight zippers. And depending on the strength, you might want to use more than one set. The above bungee cords are brand new and fit tightly around the box, so you were enough. But you can add more for good goals.

    Wait for the glue to dry (according to your glue directions) and remove the cords. Check again that all edges are flush and your rectangular box is flat. If the edge of a board runs up or down, you can sand it flat.

    Tilting the drawer to the frame

    Tilting the drawer to the frame is relatively straight forward. Squeeze the glue into a line all the way around the narrow edge of the box and spread it out over the tree with your finger or a brush.

      The edge of a board with glue spread over it.
    Josh Hendrickson [19659003] The goal is to get a good coverage of the adhesive over the wood. However, it does not have to be a thick layer. Take a look at your frame and decide which page you think is better. Place that side down on a flat surface (preferably covered with paper). Then place on the frame, glue the side down.

      Box attached to frame
    Note that the upper left corner of the frame contains a black border. This detail determined this as the inward side. Josh Hendrickson

    To add pressure, it is easiest to use heavy objects. Place something flat on the box like cardboard or plywood, then place heavy weights on the edges of the frame, like paint cans or books. Try to aim at even distance to give pressure around the box.

      Color cans sit on top of a flat MDF piece over the box frame.
    Josh Hendrickson

    Again wait at least the minimum time your glue specifies. When removing the weights and the flat part, inspect the hatch box and fill with wood glue as needed. ” width=”650″ height=”400″ data-credittext=”Josh Hendrickson” src=”/pagespeed_static/1.JiBnMqyl6S.gif” onload=”pagespeed.lazyLoadImages.loadIfVisibleAndMaybeBeacon(this);” onerror=”this.onerror=null;pagespeed.lazyLoadImages.loadIfVisibleAndMaybeBeacon(this);”/>

    Grinding of the frame for painting and painting to sand the proper grinding of your wood removes splinters, grooves and other spots the construction process created. If you skip this step, spot and color will only mark the errors.

    If you are new to grinding, the process is quite straight forward. As much as possible, sand with the wood pail (that is, follow the lines you see in the forest), and do not press all your power.

    Tip: About you & # 39; Be new to grinding, try to draw wavy lines on your frame as you see in the picture above. When the lines are gone, you probably have sanded enough.

    Start with 80 sandpaper and then move to 120, then 220. If you paint or want a deeper color, skip 220-grain paper.

    After grinding, run your hands along the wood. You should feel a noticeable difference where you have ground. Try to find some areas you lacked and sand needed.

    Don't forget to put the frame on your frame, where your monitor will appear. You can skip grinding any parts that will not be visible.

    Staining Your Frame

      A wooden frame with stain and an old pair of socks.
    Josh Hendrickson

    If you have decided to paint your frame, you can skip this step and the sealing step. Just paint your frame as usual. If you have decided to look at the wood's appearance, you can skip the staining step, but you should not skip the sealing step.

    Tip: Skip the brush, use an old pair of socks or t-shirt to apply your stain. Has two sets, one for dyeing and one for drying.

    Before dyeing, wipe off any sawdust that you created by grinding your frame. A sticky lens roll works well, but you can also use a soft damp paper. Be sure to dry the wood immediately. If you have a store store, it can be helpful to vacuum the sawdust in the area as well. You don't want sawdust to get in the spot.

    To stain your frame, double-check the stain direction for drying times. Usually you see a wipe away time and a recovery time, note them. Start by opening the jar and touching the contents. The most effective way to apply a stain is to dry it, why we recommend old socks or a t-shirt. Dip the material into the stain and allow it to be thoroughly absorbed. Then wipe your frame. You don't have to shoot over hard, but try to work in the wood.

    When you color the vertical services, try to get a smooth line and avoid droplets. Sprinkle any part of your frame that will appear, including the inner border where the monitor goes.

    Wait for the appropriate drying time, wipe off any excess stain that has not been absorbed into the wood. This step is crucial if you do not dry the excess that the stain will dry in an uneven mess.

    You will probably notice that the frame is not so dark after you have wiped away the abundance, that is normal. If you want your image darker, wait for the specified recovery time and repeat this until you are satisfied.

    Before proceeding to the next step, wait until the stain is completely dry. This will be at least the remaining time indicated on your can, and the frame should not feel sticky.

    Sealing the wood in your frame

      A colored frame with polyurethane, two brushes and an old shirt.
    Josh Hendrickson

    Wood stain is decorative; It will not protect your wood from light and other environmental damage, so you have to seal the wood.

    You can use many different ready-made, but drying on polyurethane (or poly) is a simple method. All you need is an old t-shirt. Other polyurethanes can instead call a brush.

    Again, open the jar and touch the contents. Then load up your t-shirt or brush. Try to apply long, even strokes to avoid running lines. When applied to vertical surfaces, try to avoid leaving large globs of poly; Otherwise, it will dry in that way.

    Tip: If you bought a "crystal clear" poly, it will look milky white that you apply. When it dries it will be clear.

    Check the instructions on the can. It will list a dry time and a minimum number of layers. After each drying period light sand with 220 sandpaper. Do not use power tools for this step; You will sand through the polyurethane and the stain.

    The goal is to level some bumps in the poly layer, do not remove it completely. Repeat these steps until you have the lowest number of layers you can suggest, you shouldn't need more.

    Hangers for your frame

    If you plan to hang the frame on the wall, you have two options. You can attach stable hanging hooks, or you can drill holes in the box for the wall nails to slide in. Either method will work, but you want at least three (left, right and center) over the top of the box to evenly distribute heavy weight .

    Drilled holes give you a flush against the wall profile. But hooks will not require a drill to attach.

    Happy; You have built all the necessary frame components for your smart mirror. Now is the time to move to the hardware.

    Add the hardware to your mirror

     Ramp box with screen and glass clamped.

    Begin by placing your glass and monitor in the frame and positioning them so that they show through the rectangle holes correctly. You probably have gaps between the monitor and the mirror and the edges of the frame.

    An alternative is to screw discs into place as shown on the left in the picture above. But if the room is too hard, or if your glass is much larger than the monitor, shims will not work. Instead, use a nylon strap. Screw one side and tighten the other side to measure. Cut a length a little longer than what is needed. Use a lighter to burn the cutting edge to reseal the nylon strap and then screw it onto the other side.

    When the screen and glass are secure, add Raspberry Pi and power cords. If you added a case to the Raspberry Pi, consider using double-sided tape to attach it to the frame.

     Frame box with clamped display and glass and raspberry pi

    After all, drape a dark black cloth over the entire setting and either tape it to the frame or stick it to the frame.

     Frame box with draped black cloth.

    Adding a black cloth over the monitor and glass will also improve mirroring. To show, here is a split view of two-way glass with black cloth behind the left half of the mirror.

      A two-way mirror with black cloth behind the left half, which shows better reflection.
    Note left half is darker and shows a more defined reflection of Echo in front of the mirror.

    The hardware is complete. Now is the time to set up your Raspberry Pi and install the Magic Mirror program.

    Install Magic Mirror on the Raspberry Pi

     Linux terminal with the bash command entered.

    To begin with, wanting to set your Raspberry Pi up according to the standard steps. The easiest thing to do is get a copy of NOOBS to install the latest version of Raspbian.

    The project is powered by the Magic Mirror program and is installed and configured primarily in the terminal and a text editor. You do not need to know the terminal; You can copy and paste commands below.

    First, make sure your Raspberry Pi is up to date. Run the following commands:

      sudo apt-get update
    sudo apt-get upgrade 

    And give the root password when prompted. Alternatively, use su and skip all sudo entries.

    Once all the updates have been completed, install the Magic Mirror program by running this command:

      bash-c "$ (curl -sL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/master/installers /raspberry.sh)"

    Software installs and prompts you with two options:

      Do you want to use pm2 for autostarting your Magic Mirror? 

    Enabling this option automatically launches the Magic Mirror software when your Raspberry Pi comes up. Type Y and press Enter.

      Do you want to disable the screen saver? 

    If you do not disable the screen saver, it will interfere with the interface. Type Y and press Enter.

    After that, the software will complete the installation and start itself. You need to configure additional options, but Alt + Tab returns to the terminal and enter the following:

      pm2 quit MagicMirror 

    The Magic Mirror software stops and closes.

    Configure Magic Mirror Software

     Terminal opens for /boot/config.txt

    You may have noticed some things when the software started: the display is in horizontal mode, the calendar is empty, no weather is displayed and the time is in 24 hour format. Let's take care of it.

    First and foremost, if you want to change the screen orientation, you must change a file that determines the settings at startup. In the terminal type, type the following command and then press Enter:

      sudo nano /boot/config.txt

    Config.txt file opens in the terminal. Use your down arrow button to scroll to the bottom of the file and add the following text:

      # Rotate the monitor vertically
    display_rotate = 1 

    Press Ctrl + X to close the file. Type Y to confirm that you want to save, and then press Enter to confirm the config.txt file.

    To see your change, type the following command in the terminal and then press Enter:

      sudo reboot 

    Your Raspberry Pi will restart and you should be in portrait mode. You can press Ctrl + M to minimize the mirror interface and open the terminal.

    Update of time, calendar, weather and news

    Now we will configure the Magic Mirror interface. Open the file management program and browse to the following address:

      / home / pi / MagicMirror / config 

    Right-click the config.js file and select "Open with." Expand the programming category and select Geany from the list. Then click "OK".

     Filhanterare med öppet dialogruta.

    Filen som du just öppnat hanterar de viktigaste konfigurationskomponenterna i magisk spegelsoftware. Den drar från moduler för att lägga till funktioner, och du konfigurerar inställningar för dessa funktioner här. Magic Mirror-programvaran levereras med standardmoduler för tid, väder, kalender och komplimanger.

    Om du vill ändra tiden till ett 12-timmarsformat och mätningar till imperial, bläddra till det här avsnittet:

     språk: "en" ,
    timeFormat: 24,
    enheter: "metric", 

    Ändra 24 till 12 och "metrisk" till "imperial". Du borde ha:

     språk: "en",
    timeFormat: 12,
    enheter: "imperial", 

     config.js-fil med timeFormat satt till 12 och enheter inställda på imperial

    Spara filen. Ändringen ska träda i kraft omedelbart. If you don’t see it, run the following command in the terminal or restart your Raspberry Pi:

    pm2 restart MagicMirror

    The same configuration file also houses your calendar and weather settings. To add your Google Calendar, you’ll first need your “secret address in iCal format” link from the Google Calendar website.

    Open the config.js section again and scroll to the Module: calendar section.

    Config.js focused on calendar module

    Change “US Holidays” to a name you prefer and delete the URL beginning with “webcal” between the quotation marks. Then paste in your iCal link (be sure to keep the quotes).

    Calendar module with updated changes.

    To add weather, you will need OpenWeatherMap API keys. Go to the OpenWeatherMap site and sign up for a free account. Then browse to their API section. Generate a key and copy it.

    Go back to config.js and scroll to the weather and weather forecast modules.

    Config.txt displaying weather modules.

    Paste your copied API key into “Your_OPENWEATHER_API_KEY” (be sure to leave the quotes).

    Open a browser and head to the OpenWeatherMap city search page. Search for your city and click the result. The browser link will include a number at the end. For example, Cincinnati’s link is:

    https://openweathermap.org/city/4508722

    Copy the number for your city and paste that into the location ID sections between the quotes. Finally, rename the location from “New York” to the name of your city. You should see something like this:

    Weather modules with updated information.

    To update the news, change out the current link with your favorite RSS feed. For How-To Geek, that’s:

    https://feeds.howtogeek.com/HowToGeek

    Rename the title to the appropriate website. If you want more than one news site’s headlines shown, you’ll need to list them in an array like so:

    {
     title: "NPR",
     url: "http://www.npr.org/rss/rss.php?id=1001",
    },
    {
     title: "How-To Geek",
     url: "https://feeds.howtogeek.com/HowToGeek",
     }

    Your result should look like this:

    Config module showing updated news options.

    Congratulations, you’ve completed your smart mirror!

    You can customize it even further if you like. For example, you can remove modules like the compliments or add new modules from the Magic Mirror community. Modules let you add features like Google Assistant and Alexa, snowflakes in the winter, or videos from YouTube.

    Smart Mirror showing time, date, and calendar.




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