Dolby Atmos is the latest and best surround sound format for the home. If you're reading this and are currently thinking about installing ceiling speakers, we probably do not need to tell you much about Atmos – you're ready to go, then go ahead and skip to "Are you sure of a loudspeaker?"
For those of you who need low -down, you can check the links to the left for a comprehensive retrieval.
Are you sure about ceiling speakers?
Before we start seriously, let's just double check anything. Are you sure that ceiling speakers are the right choice for your Dolby Atmos home theater setup? Installing ceiling speakers can be difficult. If you are not careful, you can end up with a rusty roof, threads hanging everywhere, a partner who now sees you as the person who destroyed their favorite rooms and … no atmosphere.
Do not forget there are other options, such as Dolby Atmos soundbars and Dolby Atmos module speakers that are not difficult to install than your original 5.1
Plan, Plan, Plan
The key to a successful installation has a thoughtful plan. You may need to deviate from the plan if unexpected things happen, but always start with a plan. In this case your plan must contain:
] How many speakers do you want?
Some Atmos receivers support up to four speakers (thanks), but you can also choose to do just two. If so, you will need to decide whether to place close to the seating / display area, which is optimal, or near the front / screen. Perhaps you want to install four speakers if you want to add later, even if your recipient can only support two? Determine now.
Dolby Labs has a series of PDF brochures that you can use to calculate the best location for each ceiling speaker, relative to where to sit and to your existing surround speakers. Keep in mind, depending on the location of your roof beams, you may need to change the final location, but you should know before starting things like submerged lighting or plumbing / plumbing will make this a non-starter.
How will you connect these new ceiling speakers back to the receiver? If you're lucky to work with an unfinished roof, or if your room is under your wind, it will be much easier to figure out. If your thanks are clear, you need to do some trained guesses using some tricks we will discuss below.
Your comfort level
This may be the most important part of the plan. Are you comfortable to take on all aspects of the job? If you install speakers in a finished roof, with finished walls, you will cut gypsum, run wire through cavities that may have obstacles and use tools like fishing tackles. There is a good chance that you need to drill holes in wood barriers like fireblocks. If you stop doing an "oops", you may need to do a small plaster repair, then primary and paint.
You do not have to be a licensed contractor to do it, but if you are not the patient sort or do not think your workmanship will impress, it's now time to decide where the boundaries are.
Select your speakers
Before cutting begins, the wire (and curse) begins to have all of your materials in place. This includes the speakers themselves. Even though your ceiling speakers should be an acoustic match for the rest of your home theater speakers, this is not critical. You also do not need to worry about finding a set with a lot of low-end bass: your subwoofer takes care of it. What to look for is a model that has wide sound dispersion. Like Dave Napoleone in Toronto-based Cloud 9 AV said "… it's supposed to create a" dome "of sound over you." Roof speakers that are very real can not be as effective on this.
How much you spend on these speakers will be a feature of your budget as well as your existing gear. If your home theater receiver and / or your amplifier is a budget model, it's hard to gain from buying expensive ceiling speakers. If you have advanced equipment, you will only cheat yourself by installing low-cost speakers.
Your ceiling speakers will be anywhere from 6 to 12 inches in diameter, which is likely to be water It's not a problem considering most roof beams are 16 inches apart (in the middle), with one 14 inch gap between them. However, the height / depth of the speakers may cause a problem. In really old homes, builders used massive wooden beams that are nine inches long or more. Modern homes will definitely have less space to play with. Before closing a ceiling speaker, make sure that your ceiling holds it. Most people only need three to four inch clearance, but there are some who need eight or nine.
If you have an open wind over your plaster, you have no worries. If you work in a finished basement, check if there are any unfinished areas where you can look up and see the exposed beams. If all else fails, make a small hole in your roof and see how far you can push it into the hole using a folded wire hanger. Mark the place on the hanger and measure once you pull it back.
Finding a Location
Determining your final speaker location will be a combination of following Dolby's recommendations and working within your ceiling. Your beams will be the biggest obstacle, literally, so you need to find out where they are. Most of the time, a founder will do the trick, but be warned: Unlike walls, roof gips are often not in direct contact with the beams.
This creates two challenges. First, a bounce sensor will not always read the changes in material density that tells you there is a slope. Secondly, the metal belts that are directly connected to the ceiling in this case are very thin, which means that they are unlikely to be registered.
Fortunately, there is a very reliable hack: Take a set of rare earth magnet magnets and slide over the roof's surface in a growing spiral pattern, beginning in the middle where you want to put a speaker. Go slowly, and hold carefully but still a constant pressure on the magnet. Eventually you will feel that trailer – it's the head of a plaster screw, and it's a reliable indicator of the presence of a belt or a metal strap. Leave it in place and do the same with a few more magnets. Usually, the beam extends over the width of the house, so you will find the next screw by slowly moving across the ceiling in a straight line against a wall. You should now have a series of magnets that show you where a distance is.
To find the next distance, measure perpendicularly from your magnetic line, about 16 inches. Start your next magnet filling here, this time keeping your path parallel to the first row of magnets. If you are lucky, the drywall has screwed in about the same places.