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How to install Dolby Atmos ceiling speaker

Dolby Atmos is the latest and best surround sound format for the home. If you're reading this and are currently thinking about installing ceiling speakers, we probably do not need to tell you much about Atmos – you're ready to go, then go ahead and skip to "Are you sure of a loudspeaker?"

For those of you who need low -down, you can check the links to the left for a comprehensive retrieval.

Are you sure about ceiling speakers?

Before we start seriously, let's just double check anything. Are you sure that ceiling speakers are the right choice for your Dolby Atmos home theater setup? Installing ceiling speakers can be difficult. If you are not careful, you can end up with a rusty roof, threads hanging everywhere, a partner who now sees you as the person who destroyed their favorite rooms and … no atmosphere.

Do not forget there are other options, such as Dolby Atmos soundbars and Dolby Atmos module speakers that are not difficult to install than your original 5.1

or 7.1 speakers. Now that we have done our due diligence, let's take it.

Plan, Plan, Plan

  How To Install Dolby Atmos Roof Speaker

The key to a successful installation has a thoughtful plan. You may need to deviate from the plan if unexpected things happen, but always start with a plan. In this case your plan must contain:

] How many speakers do you want?

Some Atmos receivers support up to four speakers (thanks), but you can also choose to do just two. If so, you will need to decide whether to place close to the seating / display area, which is optimal, or near the front / screen. Perhaps you want to install four speakers if you want to add later, even if your recipient can only support two? Determine now.

Speaker Location

Dolby Labs has a series of PDF brochures that you can use to calculate the best location for each ceiling speaker, relative to where to sit and to your existing surround speakers. Keep in mind, depending on the location of your roof beams, you may need to change the final location, but you should know before starting things like submerged lighting or plumbing / plumbing will make this a non-starter.

Your route

How will you connect these new ceiling speakers back to the receiver? If you're lucky to work with an unfinished roof, or if your room is under your wind, it will be much easier to figure out. If your thanks are clear, you need to do some trained guesses using some tricks we will discuss below.

Your comfort level

This may be the most important part of the plan. Are you comfortable to take on all aspects of the job? If you install speakers in a finished roof, with finished walls, you will cut gypsum, run wire through cavities that may have obstacles and use tools like fishing tackles. There is a good chance that you need to drill holes in wood barriers like fireblocks. If you stop doing an "oops", you may need to do a small plaster repair, then primary and paint.

You do not have to be a licensed contractor to do it, but if you are not the patient sort or do not think your workmanship will impress, it's now time to decide where the boundaries are.

Select your speakers

  Speaker size applies | How To Install Dolby Atmos Ceiling Speakers

Before cutting begins, the wire (and curse) begins to have all of your materials in place. This includes the speakers themselves. Even though your ceiling speakers should be an acoustic match for the rest of your home theater speakers, this is not critical. You also do not need to worry about finding a set with a lot of low-end bass: your subwoofer takes care of it. What to look for is a model that has wide sound dispersion. Like Dave Napoleone in Toronto-based Cloud 9 AV said "… it's supposed to create a" dome "of sound over you." Roof speakers that are very real can not be as effective on this.

How much you spend on these speakers will be a feature of your budget as well as your existing gear. If your home theater receiver and / or your amplifier is a budget model, it's hard to gain from buying expensive ceiling speakers. If you have advanced equipment, you will only cheat yourself by installing low-cost speakers.

Size Applies

Your ceiling speakers will be anywhere from 6 to 12 inches in diameter, which is likely to be water It's not a problem considering most roof beams are 16 inches apart (in the middle), with one 14 inch gap between them. However, the height / depth of the speakers may cause a problem. In really old homes, builders used massive wooden beams that are nine inches long or more. Modern homes will definitely have less space to play with. Before closing a ceiling speaker, make sure that your ceiling holds it. Most people only need three to four inch clearance, but there are some who need eight or nine.

If you have an open wind over your plaster, you have no worries. If you work in a finished basement, check if there are any unfinished areas where you can look up and see the exposed beams. If all else fails, make a small hole in your roof and see how far you can push it into the hole using a folded wire hanger. Mark the place on the hanger and measure once you pull it back.

Finding a Location

Determining your final speaker location will be a combination of following Dolby's recommendations and working within your ceiling. Your beams will be the biggest obstacle, literally, so you need to find out where they are. Most of the time, a founder will do the trick, but be warned: Unlike walls, roof gips are often not in direct contact with the beams.

This creates two challenges. First, a bounce sensor will not always read the changes in material density that tells you there is a slope. Secondly, the metal belts that are directly connected to the ceiling in this case are very thin, which means that they are unlikely to be registered.

Fortunately, there is a very reliable hack: Take a set of rare earth magnet magnets and slide over the roof's surface in a growing spiral pattern, beginning in the middle where you want to put a speaker. Go slowly, and hold carefully but still a constant pressure on the magnet. Eventually you will feel that trailer – it's the head of a plaster screw, and it's a reliable indicator of the presence of a belt or a metal strap. Leave it in place and do the same with a few more magnets. Usually, the beam extends over the width of the house, so you will find the next screw by slowly moving across the ceiling in a straight line against a wall. You should now have a series of magnets that show you where a distance is.

To find the next distance, measure perpendicularly from your magnetic line, about 16 inches. Start your next magnet filling here, this time keeping your path parallel to the first row of magnets. If you are lucky, the drywall has screwed in about the same places.

  A stack of rare earth rare earth magnets made of neodymium
A stack of rare earth cooled magnets made of neodymium [19659041] Now that you have a good idea of ​​the beams, confirm your speaker locations. Your speaker hopefully came with a circular template, which allows you to track the exact size of the opening you need to cut. If not, go to the manufacturer's website and see if there is one that you can download and print, make sure you are set to "100 percent" for the size.

With a little double sided tape, stick the templates in your roof. Measure carefully, double-check distances to ensure that the templates are placed symmetrically and in accordance with Dolby's recommendations (or as close as possible). You want to give at least one inch or two of the breathing space between the edge of the template and the nearest bent; The speaker needs space for the lock tabs that rotate longer than the circle. If you are too close to a string, these tabs will not be able to engage.

Selecting the speaker cable

Instead of the standard speaker cable, a roof installation requires a firewall built-in speaker cable that adds a heavy layer of insulation around both wires. Driving any kind of wires through a wall or ceiling may lead to contact with splintered wood, exposed metal bands, and other hazards that may damage the protective package of the standard speaker cable, causing a short or worse.

The average speaker cable is delivered in 16AWG or 14AWG gauge, which determines the thickness of the two copper wires. The smaller the number, the thicker the thread is. "A thicker speaker wire will carry the whole frequency and power better," said Napoleone, "but this is just a factor for long runs or high power / high-power applications."

Napoleone uses 16 gauge for most Cloud9s installs and says that "for small built-in speakers, I do not think you will hear any difference." If you have a long power cord or you have a premium home theater receiver connected to a set of speakers, 14 gauge cable could make sense.

How much cable?

  How much cable | How To Install Dolby Atmos Ceiling Speakers

Professional AV installers completely avoid this issue by using large coils of speaker cable – much more than they could imagine. If you do not mind buying your speaker cable in bulk, this is a great way to go. If not, you must measure carefully, because you do not want to run a short-splicing speaker cable, especially if it breaks into the ceiling or the wall where it may be damaged.

If you are convinced that you will be able to send the speaker cable into a direct line from your speaker and receiver – you may have open ceilings and walls – measure that distance by running your tape as if it were the speaker speaker. If the cable has to pass around a shot, your tape measure needs to do the same. Take your final measurement and add 10 feet. You may not need this extra length, but if you do, you will be very happy that it is there. If you do not have the luxury on an open roof, take the worst and measure the longest possible road, re-install 10 feet.

Make Your Hole

When you feel good about where they are, take a pen and track the template's circle, remove the template. Use a plasterboard, slide the blade into the center of the circle and cut out the circumference. Try to stay as close to the circle as possible. You can always make the circle bigger, but you can not make it smaller. Before removing the entire plasterboard, you may want to remove a quarter – this should be enough to hold your hand or your fur hanger in the cavity to double-click that you have not accidentally fallen too close to a belt or other obstacle. If all is well, finish your cut. If you run into a metal strap, you must cut this with a small hack saw. If you hit a curve, replace your template and start a new hole. A plaster repair is much easier than trying to cut off a belt – not to mention that it weakens the joist!

Take one of your speakers (without grids) and try the size by lifting it into the hole. It should slide in with little or no resistance, and you should have no visible slots between the edge of your hole and the front edge of the speaker. If it does not go all the way, you gradually enlarge the hole by driving the plasterboard along the perimeter and removing small amounts of material as you walk. It is important to do it evenly. Finally, your speaker will fit perfectly.

Run the cables

  Select the correct cable | How To Install Dolby Atmos Ceiling Speakers

Before you start fishing, select each cable according to the speaker to be connected (eg "Atmos Right" or "Ceiling Right"). If possible, type the actual cable itself instead of using a self-adhesive label that may be ripped when you run the cable.

Since there are almost as many installation methods as there are home theater systems, we can not offer You can do step-by-step instructions for your specific room.

What we can do is point out some excellent resources on the web that cover a large number of room types and installation methods.

Wayne Pflughaupt over at Home Theater Shack, has mounted a five-piece wall outlet guide that is equally useful for public wires as for speaker cables. He covers several scenarios, including open ceilings, drilling through firebreaks and top plates, and has some excellent tips for the first-hand exhibitor, such as how to use a zipper and a magnet to make your life easier. [19659002] As good as Wayne's guide is, it has no video. Sometimes you just need to see exactly how this is done. Here are some useful videos, including How to Fish Cables Through The Wall, a ceiling speaker installation review, a video with an ingenious tool called a Magnepull and how to handle smart insulated walls and walls with fireblocks. 19659002] We will also discuss two specific tools that we consider necessary for driving cable in walls and ceilings: Fish straps and fishing rod.

Fish band

  A spool of fish tape | How to install Dolby Atmos ceiling speaker

Fish band is a flexible but very strong coil of spring steel. It is perfect for dragging cables through wires, walls or any other place that is completely enclosed, but with few or no obstacles. It's rigid enough that you can control it simply by pushing it, yet flexible enough to get around soft bends or very narrow openings. As long as nothing blocks its way, you can press a fishing band very long distance. To use fish tape, you start from your destination.

For example, if you drive cable from the top of a wall to the bottom of a wall, insert the fish tape at the bottom of the wall and drive it up so that the end of the fish tape pops up at the top. Once you have been given a certain length of exposure, attach your cable to the end of the fishing tape with electric tape.

Begin wrap the ribbon around the fish band and then around the cable so that you have created a tape of tape around the end of the cable – this prevents it from sticking to plaster or other objects. Fold the tape as tight as possible; You want the cable to be properly connected to the fish band, but you also want to minimize the thickness created by the cable.

When attached, carefully gently pull the cable one inch or two back into the hole on top of the wall until the tape is no longer visible. Now you can return to the bottom of the wall and start pulling out the fish tape. Make sure there is nothing that prevents your cable from freely feeding into the top hole; You may want to ask someone to help with that task. If you encounter anything more than mild resistance when you leave, stop. Slide the fishing tape back a few inches and try again. You may need to do it several times and combine it with a twisting motion. Be patient, and do not give up – if the fish tape made the first trip, it should be able to make it back.

Cable Fish

  Cable Fish | How To Install Dolby Atmos Roof Speakers
Some Cable Wires

Cable fishing rods are actually quite similar to fishing rods because they are designed to be straight, rigid posts that have enough flex as you can control them from an angle. They come in different lengths, and you can usually connect multiple rods to achieve almost any total length. Most offer some screw accessories like hooks and eyes. Unlike fish bands, which of course will curl, a fishing rod stays straight. When you drive the cable through a roof, you must stay over risks like deeper lighting and gypsum tape. A fishing pole makes it very difficult because gravity will constantly pull the belt down, usually directly into the obstacles you want to avoid. A fishing rod can be led to the top of your roof cavity, and as long as you hold upward pressure on the rod, it will remain, easy to clear the objects closer to the plaster. For enclosed ceilings a fishing rod is a must.

Another advantage of a cable fishing rod is that you can shoot and pull the cable. You need to decide on the basis of your specific circumstances which technique will work best, but here are a good tip: If you decide to shoot your cable through a cavity and you get stuck, you will probably have to pull back on the rod. If there is a waste of the cable, it can jump around an obstacle that makes it impossible to retrieve. We suggest that you spin the bar when you press, which causes the cable to fit properly around it and keeps the slack to a minimum.

Installing the Speakers

If everything worked with your cable cars, this is the simple part. Strip the ends of your two copper threads with ¾ of an inch. For each thread, twist the copper strings until they form a tight, single pile. Make sure you respect the positive and negative leads, connect them to the appropriate terminals on the speaker. Some speaker threads are red and black, while others may be white and black. Always connect the black wire to the negative terminal so that you do not get confused on either the speaker or receiver.

Gently lift the speaker into the hole, be careful not to keep your excess cord wire from sitting on the top of the speaker housing – this may cause unwanted vibration. Use a screwdriver, slowly tighten the locking tab screws. You will hear a click as the tabs swing out of their home position and begin to lower their rulers. Continue turning until you encounter resistance and repeat for all four tabs. For your last step, use a very gentle pressure on each tab screw to make sure that the tab is securely seated against the plaster. Do not iron over these tabs … it is not necessary to do it, and if you accidentally click on them, they will be useless.

Grab your speaker gauge and, depending on the type, paste it in place or let the built-in magnets do the job for you. Congratulations, everything is done!

Configure Your System

Do not forget that now that you have installed and connected your new Atmospheric Speaker, you must tell your home theater receiver that they are there. Use the setup menu by finding the right speaker setup section and following the onscreen instructions. You may need to repeat the automatic smoothing procedure if your receiver was equipped with a room microphone. If your receiver allows you to set crossover frequencies for each channel, you want to make sure that the new Atmos speakers are set according to the manufacturer's suggestion.

Add Atmos

Of course, the final step ends your new Atmos loudspeaker with a really good Atmos-enabled movie. You need an Ultra-HD Blu-ray player for this and a selection of the best Atmos movies. Now let it tear!

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